From taping to finish coat, what is your best method for achieving a nice, sharp inside corner?
I run my angle with an angle box with good blades. Do your finish using a 6" knife.
When true straight angles are required, we plaster and trowel out all angles.
Finish one side at a time with a 4" knife. Make sure the first side is completely dry before putting in the other side.
Use a 3" corner angle head to wipe the corner while taping, then pump the corner with a 2" corner angle head after boxing the second coat. Sand and you’re done.
Keep it tight.
This question was also posted to AWCI’s LinkedIn group page. Here are the responses:
Correct sanding is important (solid sanding block) 4' to clean the wall ceiling junction (square set). Works every time!
—Brad O’Keefe, Site Manager, Creative Plastering Group, Australia
I’m assuming—which is always dangerous—that you’re getting surface drying cracks about .3 to 1mm wide (1/64" to 3/64"), which comes from an overbuild of mud topping compound or too thick of an application of the final coat and the feathered edge dries out faster than the corner junction leaving this telltale crack behind?
The simplest way to fix it is to grab a piece 600mm (2') of 25mmx50mm (2"x1") timber and scrape the crack with the point of the timber. It takes about 2 seconds to clean the joint and saves the painter messing up a square joint by over-filling with caulking.
—Andrew Bounader, Territory Manager, Valspar Paint Services Pty Ltd., Australia