Note: Many respondents said that re-sanding or re-skimming would do the trick, but we were looking for more than a one-word answer. Below are the responses that were a little more eloquent. And check out Wachuwannano (page 26) to see AWCI’s technical director’s opinion on this subject.
It all depends on the actual paint finish. Is the architect calling out for a slick wall or a small stipple? The painter should know this answer. For really slick walls the painter should either spray everything or use a 1/4″ nap; for a small stipple the painter should use a 3/4″ nap. I like the 3/4″ nap better because the small stipple will hide minor imperfections and the painter can’t really mess up the smooth drywall finish.
—Chris Estrada, Extreme Drywall Concepts, Glendale, AZ
The GC will blame the drywall contractor regardless, even when you can see every roller mark. The painter will say it is due to poor quality of finishing, even though he must accept the drywall finishing prior to painting. Although the way I would correct this would be to re-skim the walls with joint compound (not quick drying mud) in the areas that are in question and re-sand the walls. Then have the painter re-prime. Painters in this region typically tint the primer with the intended color, then we punch out the walls prior to final paint anyway.
—Michael Bosse’, Vice President, Above All Ceilings, Inc., Jacksonville, FL
Usually the painter and I end up getting screwed, and most of the problem was caused by the general not heating and or ventilating the job when we were forced to install drywall before the building was closed in. Then we hoped for payment of retainage eventually!
—Anonymous
An on-site pre-construction conference with all parties would have been helpful. A test panel would have been really helpful as well. Solution: Select a small test area, get the manufacturer involved and determine what works: Another coat of primer? A different primer? Sand and re-priming? Sanding and skimming? Did they follow the manufacturers’ recommendations?
—Anonymous
Back-charge the painter who primed the wall for the repair work. Or, if the primer was included with the drywall contract, change the primer manufacturer and not use again.
—Anonymous
Re-skim it, and back-charge the painters for the time and material.
—Chuck Monroe, Total Control Plastering Inc., Woodland Hills, CA
You will need to run another skim coat of mud over the damaged wall areas. Then you will need to sand all areas you repaired. Apply another full coat of primer over repaired areas.
—Brad Ganka, Proprietor, Ganka Painting, Kingsland, GA
Re-skim and back-charge him for refinishing just like painting contractors back-charge for painting excessive point-up.
—Anonymous
It depends how it ruins it. Sometimes by not using a right primer at the right time, especially at winter time, drywall absorbs extra moisture in the air and it creates a shadow-look of tape joints, which paint will never cover, and you can see all tape joints under the light. In that case you should float the walls or ceiling again.
—Anonymous
Learn how to paint!
—Anonymous
I have found that the problems arise from two basic problems: the porosity issues between the paper and the drywall compound, and the unwanted texture left from the applicators or the application of the primer, such as roller marks and spray patterns. I have found that both can be remedied by using a predominantly clay-based primer over the harder drying titanium-based primer. This allows sanding smooth any texture left by applying the primer allowing a blemish-free base for the finish coats. A welcomed bonus for this system is that clay-based primers are usually less expensive, which increases our bottom line while maintaining a superior finished product.
—Mark Smith, President, Versatile Contracting, Inc., Lakewood, CO
Kilz Cote over with a 3/8″ skim coat, lmao, then re-paint.
—Anonymous
I would alert the GC and make sure he is aware of the problem and all issues documented. I would then use an application of Level 5, spray applied, to see if that would solve the problem, still using a test area. All work done T/M. If that did not work, the wall may have to be skimmed solid with a skim coat of compound. Then, make sure the GC is involved in the re-paint process.
—Anonymous
I would use Benjamin Moore® Fresh Start® acrylic primer. If you use a block primer, for example, the drywall grains will lift like sandpaper for a rough finish. Sand entire wall between coats of primer and coats of paint as this will assist you to have a Level 5 finish.
—Terry Dean (Sec), Rob-Can Drywall Services Limited, Glace Bay, Nova Scotia, Canada
If you have to do it yourself, a room or wall, FLAT paint near a mil. Roll it on.
—Michael
In what way did the primer ruin it? The main goal of Level 5 is to reduce flashing and imperfections. If primer ruined the Level 5, then I’m assuming you are referring to a flashing problem. Flashing is caused by primer or paint drying faster and being absorbed at different rates on the drywall joints (mud) versus the drywall paper (no mud). The primer is supposed to seal everything so that the remaining coats dry and absorb at the same rate. If you have already primed and are seeing flashing, that will be a hard problem to fix since it is now sealed. My recommendation would be to coat the entire area with a Level 5 product like Hamilton’s Prep Coat Plus or USG’s (SHEETROCK Brand) TUFF HIDE™. I would roll it on with a thick nap roller. If you are texturing, then texture after application and then use a high quality primer made for reducing flashing.
—Travus Allen, Managing Partner, Advanced Drywall LLC, Idaho Falls, ID
Do your homework beforehand. What was the specified primer, and is it suitable or was it used? Make it someone else’s problem, not yours. If it is not suitable, sell a change order.
—Anonymous
Lots of bad painters out there these days. If it’s bad enough, a tight skim coat may be needed.
—Kevin, KL Drywall LLC
We solve the issue by being proactive ahead of time. We clearly state in our documents that once the painter starts, the surface is their responsibility. We also establish communications with the painting contractor during the project and make sure that they are using appropriate products and application methods. Since we also self-perform painting work we are in a position to know what needs to be done and what type of products should be used.
—Anonymous
Do painters even prime anymore?
—Anonymous
